World Duty Free is known for the solid rather than the spectacular in confectionery and the formula is repeated here at T3. There's plenty of engagement from the big brands such as Cadbury, Ferrero and M&M's and a spacious, though austere premium chocolate, gifting, fine foods and tea zone. Within the latter, Fortnum & Mason looks good and is good. The brand is a huge hit here, outselling even its highly successful T5 counterpart, helping to make T3 World Duty Free's best-selling food department.

But we'd like to see more colour, verve and excitement on the shop floor; chocolate after all is one of the world's most-loved foods. It is made in a myriad of countries and in a multitude of styles.

Where is the eclectic gourmet and artisan offer? The educational component on sustainability (some of the big brands below are at the vanguard of this movement)? The offer is, as World Duty Free explained on the day, "at the end of the customer journey", in keeping with most Dufry walk-through stores. Somehow it feels exactly that. Shouldn't it be an intrinsic and exciting part of the journey instead?

But it's not the physical location that is the issue. After all, being placed close to the tills plays to the impulse urges of shoppers, pivotal to driving volume. Sense of Place is a concept that succeeds here – Fortnum & Mason and Walkers are the two best-sellers, and Cadbury and Thorntons both do well, but that’s really Brands of Place. The store doesn’t feel British at all. Compare and contrast with the same retailer's wonderful World of Whiskies. The Cadbury teapot (very nice) and M&M's installations (colourful, fun and interactive) pictured below are described as “positive disruption” but we're not so sure they count as that.

Nearer the multiple tills there's an emphasis on smaller-format packaging, family-orientated brands and sugar confectionery, again playing to impulse purchasing.

It's all very orderly, a bit like an archetypal English queue. But new generation it isn't.